Arigato, Umi Sushi!

Let me first say that I love sushi.

Long before I developed consistent memories, I was eating sushi with great gusto. Perhaps it was the presentation of brightly colored morsels served on delicious sticky rice that attracted me. Or the unbelievable sensation of wasabi and soy sauce mixed together. I guess it doesn't matter; today I'll eat almost anything. But I still turn to Japanese food when I need a great meal. And a great meal is what I got at Umi Sushi.

Opened in January in central San Rafael, Umi Sushi is a perfect example of quality sushi housed in unassuming environs. By that I mean they focus on the food and not on ambient accoutrement. The restaurant has a sharp, clean look to it. Inconspicuous artwork tastefully adorn the walls, and the background music was, oddly enough, classic rock. I can't decide if this was a cultural adaptation of Marin or if the chef just really liked Grand Funk Railroad. It certainly didn't seem to hinder his ability to slice sushi.

I ordered the chirashi sushi - chef's choice of fish. Tender cuts of mackerel, tuna, octopus, eel, squid and salmon were promptly prepared and served with a confident smile - something always appreciated when eating uncooked food. When I finished my meal, I quietly reflected on the service, which by the way, was impeccable. My green tea arrived very quickly, as did the staple of any sushi lunch - miso soup and vegetables with peanut sauce. Modesty seems to be the key to this establishment, and I think it works very well in a neighborhood that simultaneously values affordable food without ostentatious frills. If you're looking for good food and great service, take a drive to Fourth Street and try Umi.

Umi Sushi
819- 4th St.
San Rafael
415 457-3992