The Torch Relay That Didn't Happen

Today is sunny, in the high 60s- a perfect day for a relay run, and an equally perfect day for a protest. We are motoring across the bay on the Larkspur ferry, to San Francisco to see both…or so we thought.

There are several people on the ferry- some holding Tibet prayer flags and protest signs.  We strike up a conversation with one woman who attended the Tibet rally at the U.N. Plaza last night.  She raves about Archbishop Desmond Tutu's speech-

“He was encouraging, uplifting and even humorous. He asked people not to go to Beijing"

Others onboard are just as animated.  Lucien, an artist from Santa Cruz, shows us her colorful, handmade banner. It's a multi-media piece, loaded with news clippings, sketches and Tibetan prayer flags stitched to the large cotton panels.  Vivian, from Sausalito, tells us she's been a Tibet supporter for eight years, but it's not her first cause.  She was an anti-war and pro-feminist activist back in the day.  Her friend Emily, sitting beside her, tries to strike a balance-

A boycott is not the solution…world leaders not attending- that would make a statement. The French President isn’t going.”

In fact, UK's Prime Minister, Gordon Brown will join German Chancellor Angela Merkel in not attending the opening ceremonies. But as far as we know, French President Nicolas Sarkozy hasn't yet made up his mind.

A woman in her 20s walks by wearing a baseball cap with the Olympic logo on it.  We ask her if she is going to the torch event to show support.  She is Julie, from Sonoma and she's very enthusiastic-

"I understand people's qualms  about Beijing and China, but the Olympics stand for peace and unity...bringing people of different cultures and religions and backgrounds together."

It turns out Julie is also a former competitive gymnast, who dreamt of going to the Olympics. She didn’t make it, as she says, “the closest I’ve gotten is today’s torch relay.” Julie has also met Archbishop Tutu personally, and has the “greatest respect for what he has to say” even though she doesn’t agree with his opinion. She sums it up this way- “Go where your heart is.”

We arrive at the Ferry Building, and walk outside into a sea of large, red Chinese flags, multi-colored Tibetan flags, American flags, balloons, banners and every type of sign imaginable. People are chanting, shouting slogans, laughing, marching and crowd-watching. Everyone seems to be in a festive mood, although it’s clear from the signs they carry which camp they fall into. 

There is a small knot of SF police, milling by the barrier, looking pretty unconcerned. In retrospect, this should’ve been a clue. We ask one officer about the growing size of the crowd and what he thinks. He doesn’t want to give an interview, but admits the crowd is peaceful-

“We don’t expect problems…in the City…we’re used to this sort of thing.”

We walk around, trying to figure out the best vantage point to watch the torch. The crowd continues to swell- young, old, costumed, casual, businessmen and the unwashed. Whether to shout insult or encouragement, they’re all here in hopes of getting a glimpse of the flame.

The pro-Tibet marchers are vocal;  the most visual is the large pro-Darfur group, all clad in green and carrying huge bunches of green balloons. We spot a pro-Burma sign and then, a pro-Vietnamese one. It seems everyone has a beef with the Chinese.

Suddenly there is a shout, a drumming, a commotion and we look over to see a huge dragon being carried by torch supporters. They thread their way through the crowd, enduring shouts and taunts by protestors the entire length of the street. The temperature is rising, and so are tempers.

We find a spot, and wait. The Ferry clock dings 1:00pm, which is the scheduled start of the relay. Everyone peers down the street for a sign of the torch. The clock dings 1:30pm, and then 2:00pm, and nothing. Rumors swirl around us;  the start is delayed, there’s a change of route. One person confirms the route has been shortened, but they have no other details. The rumors get stronger and stranger by the minute- the torch is being driven in a van, it’s still in the warehouse, it’s already in the tent behind us, it’s on a police boat motoring up the bay now. The boat rumor seems plausible, and we race over to waters edge. Nope, no torch. Back to the side of the street to wait some more. The Ferry clock chimes 3:00pm and we see more scuffles and small clashes around us. The police look bored. We get the feeling we are not going to see the torch.

Then a car drives down the barricaded street, and then several more. A policeman is walking down the middle shouting that it is over. No torch.

On the ferry back to Marin, we spot two fresh-faced, teens holding pro-Tibet signs.  Were they disappointed that the torch was re-routed, we ask? Not really, they say. This was their first protest, and they were just glad to be there.

Postscript:  It turns out the torch did take a revised route, up Van Ness Avenue and ended with a small, private closing ceremony held at SFO, instead of at Justin Herman Plaza.  The torch is on its way to Argentina.

MoreMarin Editorial:

The question of an Olympic Games being held in Beijing is controversial. Most of the people we saw in SF, came out squarely on one side, or the other.  But in our opinion, it is not so black or white.

We feel that the IOC should never have awarded China the games to begin with.  China's dismal human rights record and repressive policies- not only against other countries, but against its own people- speak for themselves.

But China was given the nod to host the games. And the athletes and torch runners should not be punished for our ill will against China.  They have sacrificed and trained and fought for their right to compete, and we should respect that.  We do not support a boycott, and believe that if people want to be on-site spectators, they should.  But, neither should we sit idly by, while China stamps out dissent with violence. We believe that world leaders can make a strong statement, by not showing up at the opening or closing ceremonies.  Already, Britain and Germany heads said they will not attend. France has sugggested they might not either, and even our own President has indicated  he may not participate. 

Even though we would not boycott the athletic events, we would be sending a clear signal of our distaste to the Chinese government.  And with the Olympic ceremonies on the world stage, that is something even the Chinese cannot ignore.

For more photos, see our MoreMarin photo album here.

Comments

[oldfart]

This article is fabulous - I felt like I was there! Also great photos, and I agree wholeheartedly with your editorial comments. Keep up the good work!!!

[Nick]

nice job on the story; sorry i couldn't be more helpful on the news feed.

[Pam Chisholm]

Oh how I miss San Francisco! Your description of the folks you met on the Ferry and once you got into the City reminds me that there is nothing like the passion of the people in the Bay Area!

[NM]

I concur that the IOC's decision to have China host the Olympics was a bad one. However, that decision has been mande and the focus now should be on the athletes. The protests against China should be taken elsewhere as not to cloud the spirit of the Olympics.

Great article!

[Megan McGilchrist]

We had similar protests here in London - in the snow. I think there would have been a lot more people out if the weather hadn't been so bad. I agree about focussing on the athletes, but I don't think China's human rights record can be ignored, along with the current crisis in Tibet. There was an interview on the BBC with a senior member of the Chinese establishment stating that if there were protests during the Himalayan leg of the torch's journey, authorities would "not be merciful." We know what that means in China. My opinion is that giving the Olympics to China is like giving it to any other despotic regime, and sympathetic as I am with the athletes, the protests are right.

[Rob Chisholm]

Wonderful article. Let athletes be athletes and keep political views out of athletic competitions and events.